Duke Kahanamoku: The Father of Modern Hawaiian Surfing

Historically, surfing is believed to have originated in Polynesia. When it finally reached Hawaiian waters, it became a crucial part of the Hawaiian culture. In ancient times, surfing was an activity for royalty or used as a way to settle disputes. Everything about surfing was sacred, from choosing the tree in which to carve a board to who was allowed to surf in certain areas. When colonizing Europeans landed in Hawai’i, they did away with countless Hawaiian cultural practices and values. Surfing was one of them. Although the physical act of surfing was halted, Hawaiians never let the feeling of riding the waves slip from their hearts. 

Over time, as more and more people came from all over the world to visit Hawai’i for the first time, surfing became known as the recreational sport of the decade. Word spread fast, and people began attempting their luck at surfing. From this, surf clubs and the infamous beach boys of Hawai’i were born. 

From this movement, the most famous beach boy of all was introduced to the world. Duke Kahanamoku. 

Astounding Hawaiian and waterman, Duke Kahanamoku took the world by storm when he introduced the sport of surfing across the globe. He shared his aloha spirit and passion for surfing in a way that would touch the hearts of millions and bring pride to Hawaiians. 

Duke was born in 1890 in downtown Honolulu to full-blooded Hawaiians, Duke Halapu, and Julia Paoa Kahanamoku. Around 1908, by the time he was in his teens he began to grow a fevered passion for ocean sports, specifically swimming and surfing. 

In 1911, at 21 years young, he made headlines by breaking 3 freestyle world records at Honolulu harbor in his first swimming races. In the following year, he took home a gold Olympic medal while breaking the 100-meter freestyle world record and a silver medal with the U.S. freestyle team at the 1912 Stockholm Olympics. Duke would go on to win 2 more gold medals in the 1920 Antwerp Olympics, a silver medal in the 1924 Paris Olympics, and a bronze medal in the 1932 Los Angeles Olympics. 

Following his stunning athletic career, Duke decided to share his incredible skills with the world. Over the course of 30 years, he single-handily introduced surfing and swimming to the California and U.S. Atlantic coast, as well as Australia and New Zealand. Duke moved to Los Angeles to continue helping build the surfing culture in California. Southern California is now known as the surfing capital of the state because of Duke.  

Eventually returning to his island home, Duke served as the Sheriff of Honolulu and was re-elected 13 times. His people recognized what he did for his home and culture. Following Hawai’i’s statehood, he was appointed the new state of Hawaii’s Official Ambassador of Aloha.

Duke passed away on January 22, 1968, at his home in Waikiki. Duke continued to bring honor to his family even after his death. He has been inducted into the U.S. Olympic Hall of Fame and honored at the National Portrait Gallery at the Smithsonian Institution in Washington DC. He has statues dedicated to him in Australia, had the France Surf Festival named in his honor, his name inscribed in the Huntington Beach Surfer Walk of Fame, and has his iconic statue in Waikiki where thousands come to visit him every year. 

Duke shared more than just the sport of surfing. He introduced the world to the Hawaiian spirit and way of life. He taught people sportsmanship, positivity, and treated every person he met like they were his ohana. Duke was more than just a person, he represented a way of living. His legacy will continue to live on through surfing and the spirit of aloha.