Surfing On Maui: As Told By ISIR Agents

Surfing and Maui are like the stars and the sky, one wouldn’t be whole without the other. Maui’s surfing history dates back hundreds of years and is a crucial and significant part of Hawaiian history. Today, we see thousands of people every year fly to our little island for a chance to have their moment on the blue crystal clear waves of Maui. The locals that grow up on the island have stories about skipping class when a good swell comes in, getting in their cars filled with sand after a quick surf sesh, or spending hours on hours every weekend basking in the sweet rides of Maui’s surflines. You grow up learning how to be in the water before you learn how to walk! No one is surprised when they see their teachers, doctors, or realtors out on the water come Saturday morning. That's just the Maui Lifestyle.

Among our ohana, at Island Sotheby’s International Realty we have a few Realtors who are just as passionate about surfing as they are about their business. We turned to them for some sage advice on Maui's surf scene. Here’s what they had to share! 

What makes surfing on Maui so special, compared to all the other beaches in the world? 

Jack Roden R(S): For me, Surfing on Maui brings a welcoming feeling. Compared to other places I have surfed, where standing on the beach can be intimidating, cold, and ferocious, here on Maui the surf wants you to paddle out and welcomes you when you get there with a warm water embrace. The temperature on Maui only fluctuates between 70-80 degrees and the water is always warm. We have the opportunity to surf year-round without a wetsuit.

Sam Utley R(B): Maui is very unique we have perfect beginner waves for learning to surf, Maui also has one of the biggest and most dangerous surf spots known as Jaws every winter when the swell is just right big wave surfers travel from around the world to compete in the  Jaws Big Wave Contest

Mark Jackson R(B): There are a number of things starting with the incredible views you see while sitting in the lineup...either looking back to shore or looking at the outer islands of Lanai and Molokai. Watching the sunset, crystal clear (most of the time), warm water year-round, and a variety of surf spots that cater to all different skill levels of surfers.

Tiffany Hyde R(S): I have only surfed a few other places in the world, but Maui has the perfect package. Wave quality, consistency, and the water is warm and clear. There are surf spots for every level of surfer and we have some world-renowned surf breaks. Also, the perk of being on an island is there are waves year-round. 

Jason Clark R(S): Maui is special because there is such a large variety of wave types, sizes, and conditions that it is definitely one of the most unique places in the world for all types of surfing. Whether you are a beginner looking to catch your very first wave, or are more advanced and looking to ride one of the largest waves in the world, you can find it all on Maui.  Anything from perfect glassy ankle-high waves that break for a 100 yards to 70-foot tall waves that could fit a school bus inside them, there is no shortage of options.  Maui has spots like Maalaea, which is considered to be the fastest wave in the world and we also have Honolua Bay, which is a point break you will find on almost every list of Top 10 waves in the world. There are also many other amazing spots off the beaten path which allows surfers the opportunity to score perfect waves with only a handful of friends.  Combine this with year-round temperatures in the 80-degree Fahrenheit range and a 10,000-foot volcano as the backdrop, you'll find very few locations around the world that can compare.

Ryan MacLaughlin PB: It's one of the most accessible locations in the world, yet still so removed, as we are in the middle of the Pacific. It's an international location, so you meet so many people from so many different places. The weather does not change here, so the water temperature is 78 degrees all year. So comfortable, and we don't have to wear any wetsuits. There are so many levels of waves in Hawaii, beginner, moderate, and advanced skill levels can find waves anywhere. Everyone is so happy, because the scenery wherever you are is absolute paradise, with turtles swimming under your board, families, and kids playing on the beach, and palm trees growing right out of the sand. It doesn't get any better. 

Kalei Fisher R(S): Some of the ways that surfing on Maui is so special and different from other places I have been around the world: natural beauty jumps to the top of the list.  It could be sunset at Honolua Bay with perfect waves, whales breaching in the Pailolo Channel, endless shades of purple on the ridges of the valleys, and double rainbows. Then there is the desolation and power of La Perouse Bay. Seaspray erupting from the lips of massive south swells blinding you as you take off on intense rides surrounded by black lava as far as you can see. It is like being lost in time with no visible signs of civilization. One very cool feature is that on West Maui the best summertime south shore waves and the world-class north swell winter waves are about a ten-minute drive apart.

Daniel Gonzalez R(S): With my newness to the surfing lifestyle, I've had the unique experience of only ever surfing on Maui and O’ahu. I grew up on skis and snowboards most of my life but dreamt of surfing long before I caught my first wave which made it that more special when I did. To be able to learn and progress in the same waters where the story of surfing has profound historical roots has been a life experience for which I am eternally grateful. Surfing on Maui comes with no shortage of beauty in the backdrops and rainbows dancing in the valleys. The water is warm, smiles are prevalent and it is a rare day during the year that there aren’t waves somewhere around the island

What is your favorite surf spot on the island and why?

Jack Roden R(S): This is a hard question to answer as it goes against the surfer code in that we don’t broadcast our spots ☺. Maui is known for its plenty of amazing surf spots that offer a wide range of enjoyment for varying skill levels and experiences, with welcoming swells for the first time surfer and world-class waves for the pros. If you visit Maui, we can paddle out together to some of my favorites or reach out to me and I might give you a hint… I do spend most of my time where I live, on the west-side.

Sam Utley R(B): The sheer excitement you get when you round the corner and see the long peeling perfect waves at Honolua Bay one of the most perfect waves in the world.  Every time I drive up to the Bay on the west side of Maui it gives me goosebumps with the pure excitement of Surfing the waves there.  Watch video here

Mark Jackson R(B): Honolua Bay has been a favorite surf spot of mine for many years and can be one of the best waves in the world when it is "on". It is a beautifully shaped wave with long peeling walls and hollow sections breaking into a beautiful bay. Unfortunately, I don't surf it as much as I used to because of the crowds.

In the summertime, Mala Wharf is a favorite spot with long peeling waves reminiscent of Malibu, but a "left".

Tiffany Hyde R(S): I longboard and bodyboard and like to surf very different spots depending on if I am out with my LB or BB. I usually look for the same conditions for both but prefer a smaller wave for longboarding. Having the option to choose between the two makes it easy to always find somewhere to surf! Bodyboarding Paukukalo is a favorite because there are so many waves and usually not much of a crowd or Olowalu if the crowd is small. Summer west side longboard sessions are what I look forward to every year and love going to Woodys or 1000 Peaks. I am goofy so I am always looking for a good left!

Jason Clark R(S): My favorite surf spot is Maalaea. It is a perfect barreling wave with strong offshore winds but unfortunately, it also happens to be one of the rarest waves as well.  Maalaea is a southern exposed break located in the farthest inset of Maalaea bay and requires a perfect swell angle to squeeze through the channel of Maui's southern tip and the island of Kahoolawe.  Maui is located about 20 degrees north of the equator and all south swells are created by storms in the southern hemisphere and need to travel a long distance before they finally hit the reef creating what is known as the world's fastest wave.  Combine these factors together and it is no wonder why Maalaea rarely ever turns on.  In a good summer, it gets good about a handful of times, but the last time a swell of significant size hit the reef, creating waves that attracted pro surfers from the outer islands, was in September of 2005. Yes 15 years ago…

Ryan MacLaughlin PB: This sounds weird because there are so many beautiful beaches and rocky point breaks, but my favorite spot is Kahului Harbor. The wave is amazingly smooth because the breakwall cuts all the wind chop, and then the swell hits a sandy ledge in the harbor, creating a lot of power. That, and I grew up fishing, so I love watching the boats coming in and out of the harbor! Lots of action. 

Kalei Fisher R(S): As for my favorite Surf spot the obvious choice would be Honolua Bay. I have had some of the best waves of my life there with some of my best friends. Unfortunately on a good day, there will be at least 50 of those friends and 25 strangers in the water. As for my current favorite spot I would have to say Big Lefts at Paukukalo. It is more of a local spot where you see generations of surfers who have grown up in the area surfing together and more respect in the water.  There is just a different vibe to go with the great views of Haleakala, the Central Valley, and the West Maui Mountains.

Daniel Gonzalez R(S): There is a surf break off West Maui that has captured my heart and feels like an episode out of Cheers. When you find this spot, you will know. Initially, you will be observed and your intentions will be graded and if you are worthy, your smile will be welcome to return. It is iconic to me and can only be found when looked for. The two monk seals are regulars on the beach and all the turtles have names. The valley between the mountains is misty and backlit by the rising sun in the mornings. In the evening, the sun on the water sets the cloud edges afire with electric shards of all the colors you would expect and some that you wouldn’t.

What is one of your earliest memories of surfing on Maui?

Jack Roden R(S): It was soon after I had moved to Maui from Europe where I had lived for the previous 15 years. I was surfing at Launiupoko Beach Park with new friends. The water was peaceful and the waves were peeling perfectly the whole afternoon. As the sun started to set, I could feel the cool falling mountain air, I could smell the salt of the ocean and a hint of smoke from the happy families grilling dinner on the shore. It was then that I realized, moving here was the best decision I had ever made. All of my uncertainty about leaving my old life behind instantly vanished. Before I came here, I knew that I would like to live on Maui but that day I realized I loved it. 

Sam Utley R(B): Traveling to Maui from California I was completely blown away with the crystal clear warm water of the many surf spots around Lahaina, surfing perfect reef break waves with turtles is an amazing experience.

Mark Jackson R(B): One of my earliest memories was my first summer on the island, driving past Ukumehame, "Thousand Peaks" area on the way to Lahaina and seeing the offshore winds blowing off the backs of the waves like the "manes of white stallions" and wondering if the waves were going to be as good once we reached the surf spots in Lahaina. Paddling out once we reached our destination in Lahaina, to the waves breaking on the reef about 100 yards out, seeing the coral reef below your board, fish swimming below, smelling the salt water, and the breeze, the fresh scent of the surf wax you just rubbed on your board!

Tiffany Hyde R(S): One of my first bodyboarding memories on Maui was a unicorn Churches session. First light, the water was glass, no current (which at this spot is not normal), and only a few others out. We scored glassy waves all morning long and I was hooked. My favorite and earliest memory of longboarding was a magic dawn session with fun, easy waves rolling through at Launiupoko with sunrise colors flooding the sky. 

Jason Clark R(S): One of my earliest memories of surfing was when I was around 7 or 8 years of age.  I was camping at Olowalu beach located on the southwest-facing shore of Maui with my uncle and cousin.  Olowalu is located right off the main highway headed toward Lahaina with about 50 feet of "beach" between the road and the water's edge.  The "beach" or shore is lined with smooth round rocks about the size of grapefruits and a handful of trees which provide very little shade from the intense Lahaina heat.  There are three main peaks at Olowalu. We were surfing the left at the most southern part of the beach.  I am a regular foot (left foot in front) which means I had to go backside (back faces the wave when standing) to ride these waves.   I had been surfing for a couple of years at this point, but I can remember this one wave so clearly to this day.  It was probably about 4-5 feet tall on the face (front of the wave) and I paddled in and got to my feet as the wave was just starting to break. I flew to the bottom at what felt like 100 miles per hour and made the bottom turn to continue down the line. It was a sensation that is unexplainable and one that I am still addicted to today.

Ryan MacLaughlin PB: The first and best memory I have was when I first caught a wave at Cove Beach Park in Kihei. My dad was standing in knee-deep water and pushed me into what felt like 100 waves over and over. There were a lot of wipeouts but there were a lot of great waves ridden with an extremely wide "stink bug" stance because I was trying so hard to not fall off the board. I felt like I was on a hoverboard, just floating across the ocean. That moment changed my thinking completely about how I wanted to spend my free time. I never wanted to leave the ocean after that!

Kalei Fisher R(S): One of my earliest memories of surfing on Maui was standing on the cliff above Windmills surf spot looking down at the break. I was with a few of my new coworkers who had moved here from the mainland and Australia to open the new Hard Rock Cafe in Lahaina. I remember one of them asking me "what is all that stuff on the bottom?" my response was "that is the bottom." Windmills are a very shallow hazardous spot. These guys either bloodied their bodies, damaged their boards or both every time we surfed there for what seemed like years. Back then you could smell the pineapple getting ripe in the nearby fields on Lipoa point, I miss the pineapple but not the pineapple bugs. Growing up on Oahu it was hard to find such wild feeling spots.

Daniel Gonzalez R(S): My wife and I were with friends for a combined bachelor/bachelorette trip to Maui before we moved to the island. We had been to Maui many times prior to that but were always so enthralled with all the other activities that I never had a chance to surf. On this particular trip, the gentlemen had a dedicated surf day and I caught my first wave in Lahaina. In addition to the elation, I remember a feeling of fulfillment. That I had accomplished what I set out to do which was catch one wave. But the satisfaction was fleeting and I found myself wanting more… I never did catch another wave that trip but the next time I surfed, I was living on the island and that second wave carried a special significance for me. I was home and the playground never closed.

If you had to describe the perfect surfing day on Maui what would it be? 

Jack Roden R(S): Waking up early and getting out when the sun is rising. In the morning I like to stand-up-paddle. Early, you can see the reef clearly before the sun gets too high. When the waves roll towards you, they create a concave lens that magnifies the reef below. It is common this time of day to see rays, tropical fish, sea turtles, you name it. Starting my day this way creates a sense of peace and clarity. I will surf for a few hours then, second breakfast. Oddly, I love to have a Poke bowl after a morning surf. Usually, at this point, I would plan for a hike in the woods (on my perfect day). I like to try and find wild fruit and it is quite easy to find lilikoi (passion fruit), guava, apple bananas, papaya and I recently stumbled upon a ripe pineapple in the middle of the forest. Then back home for a nap. Around four, I will make a call or two and load up the board again for a sunset surf. In the afternoon I love being out with friends. It is a great time to catch up, cheer each other on, and share the Maui experience. When the sun starts to go down, the island puts on quite a show from the water. The sunsets behind you as you look towards the shore. The rainbows evaporate and your focus is drawn to the pink and orange clouds contrasting the deep green landscape, while the daylight slowly retreats up the mountain. The water calms and takes on a metallic shimmer that reflects the whole show that’s happening above.

Sam Utley R(B): Surfing on Maui every day is perfect somewhere, sometimes the waves are not great but you can always go for a swim and see sea turtles and tropical coral. If I could have the most perfect day would be a 6-8 foot North West swell surfing Honolua Bay with just 5 friends. (Most of the time there are 50) 

Mark Jackson R(B): Surfing one of my favorite surf spots with only a couple of other friends out in the lineup, the slight offshore wind blowing, waves head high to a couple of feet overhead. Then when the session is over, you are so tired that you have "spaghetti arms", having an ice-cold beer, sitting on the beach, watching the waves and talking story with your buddies.

Tiffany Hyde R(S): My absolute favorite time to be in the water is sunrise. It is never easy to get out of bed when it is still dark outside, but it is quiet, calm, so peaceful, and usually nice winds. Perfect surfing day would be sunrise to sunset, dead winds, consistent, an empty lineup, and shoulder to head high depending on if I am BB or LB.

Jason Clark R(S): The perfect surfing day on Maui to me would go something like this:  It would be a day where there is a large early season North Swell and a large late-season South Swell or vice versa. This helps spread out the crowd but also allows both Maalaea and Honolua to be breaking at the same time.  The North Swell would be large enough for Peahi to be breaking so all the big waves guys would head that way, keeping the crowds even thinner.  I would paddle out to Maalaea early in the morning as Honolua usually has morning sickness before the trade winds pick up and clean it up around mid-morning.  After a few hours of super fast barrels, I would head up to Honolua and hopefully paddle out as the morning crowd goes in for lunch.  Score a few hours of Honolua perfection, which usually provides large wide-open barrels and smooth open faces for big carves.  I would then head back to Maalaea, which for some reason loves to turn on in the evening. Combine this with some good food and friends and it doesn't get any better.

Ryan MacLaughlin PB: I've never been into chasing the perfect wave or the biggest wave. What makes the perfect day of surfing is being in the ocean with friends and family and being able to share a moment with them of absolute appreciation of just being in the middle of the ocean in the place that I love more than anything. Even if a 1 ft ripple comes in and we all ride the wave together, just laughing at each other to where our stomach hurts, that's the perfect day of surfing. 

Kalei Fisher R(S): At this stage in my life, a perfect day of surfing wouldn't be only about the wave quality. Friends and family are key elements. Watching my sons riding waves with their friends while I catch waves with my friends (who happen to be the parents of my son's friends), there's nothing better. The sweet smell of teriyaki being grilled on the beach and a cooler full of ice-cold beverages waiting onshore. I can almost hear the reggae tunes pumping out of one of the boys lifted Tacoma now.

Daniel Gonzalez R(S): The perfect surfing day on Maui starts with the anticipation the night before when a swell is in. Rising before the sun and seeing the stars, the white lines in the darkness on the horizon, the slight chill of the water, the myriad of colors subtly yet steadily intensifying with the rising sun and that first couple of rides enliven the senses and set the tone for the day ahead. Sunrise on an island is already absurdly incredible and to experience it while in the water after a wave or two is mythical and one of my favorite things. Living that day and most days after without positivity and gratitude is impossible.

 

What advice would you give to someone wanting to pursue their passion for surfing Maui waves?

Jack Roden R(S): Anyone can just hop on a plane and come for a visit to surf but surfers or aspirational surfers who move here, join a community. There are so many surf spots and surfing days that even the novice can hone their skills in a relatively short amount of time. We have great weather to thank for that. The sun shines every day and there are always waves somewhere within a short drive. For those looking to start surfing or those of you looking for that perfect wave, one of the best places on earth to find it is Maui. 

Sam Utley R(B): Maui has lots of different types of waves and it’s best if you know your ability and limit your Surfing spots to your ability. Someone who has never surfed before can take a lesson at cove park in Kihei, as you get better you can broaden your range of spots depending on the conditions for that day. Also, most of the waves are above coral reefs that can tear your feet up if you touch them. So please do your best to fall flat and don’t put your feet down when you fall off the board. 

Mark Jackson R(B): Learn on the right size board and at a spot that has gentle long rolling waves. Take a lesson from a surf school. If you already know how to surf, always be respectful in the lineup. And for both beginners and the more experienced-Never put your feet down on the reef if at all possible! The reef is sharp and can cut your feet easily, not to mention the sea urchins that may be lurking there and....it is not good for the coral to be walking on it.

Tiffany Hyde R(S): If you are just learning, first and foremost learn surfing etiquette. If you are new to a spot, sit and watch. HAVE FUN! Surfing is supposed to be fun no matter what level you are, but respect the ocean and know your limits. Hawai’i is notorious for rip currents so it is worth taking time to observe and ask questions before jumping out. Rule on the side of caution and “If in doubt, don’t go out.”

Jason Clark R(S): Maui offers something for surfers on every level.  But the ocean is very unpredictable and weather conditions can be very challenging.  Approach the ocean with great respect and understanding.  The last thing you want to do is put yourself in a situation that can put you or others in danger.  Always start with something that you are comfortable with and then slowly work your way into more challenging conditions.  There is a very simple rule to follow, "if in doubt, don't go out"...  safety (for you and others) is the number one priority.

Ryan MacLaughlin PB: Take a lesson from one of the many surf schools that are on the island. Many of my friends are instructors, and most of them were professional surfers at one time. The passion for surfing has never left them, so they automatically pass the "stoke" along to their students. It's the coolest thing to watch. After a lesson, I am a firm believer in feeling the ocean. Even if you are just floating on a board in the water, you can learn so much about tides, currents, swells, direction, etc. Start small and keep staying small, meaning don't push yourself too quickly into larger surf, as that's where you can hurt yourself. Mainly it's endurance and your breath that you have to control and stay calm and controlled. And lastly, try, try, try, and try again. Keep catching wave after wave after wave. That's the only way you will learn and improve. Every wave will be more and more fun as you learn. 

Kalei Fisher R(S): If I was asked to give someone advice on how to approach surfing on Maui I would recommend showing respect to the locals. No matter your skill level, don't feel that you are entitled to any wave you want, don't paddle out if your skills don't match the conditions and please do your part to keep the ocean and beach clean. Maui has many people riding every imaginable wave craft. From keiki on bodyboards, kupuna on longboards, SUPs, and the newest generation of foilers appreciate the variety and most of all have fun and be humble. Share the waves, encourage the keiki, and remember, there are more waves coming. Mahalo.

Daniel Gonzalez R(S): I believe if you approach surfing with the intention to have fun above all else, it’s hard not to. When I started surfing I wanted nothing more than to get my wave count up and to surf all the famous and renowned spots throughout the islands. Every day I was trying to improve and it worked, but my greatest leaps in learning came when I lived in the moment above all else. I stopped counting sessions and waves and started thinking about each wave individually and as a standalone event like an entry ticket to a new movie that you could only see once. I suggest investing in a lesson but learn at your own pace. Educate yourself on the ocean and talk with the people around you in the water and ask questions. Give yourself to your surroundings and they will give back to you. Respect the ocean and the land and it will return the favor. Surfing can’t be learned from a book or an instruction manual but etiquette can be. Surfing has to be experienced and you will never know enough, or learn enough, or surf enough to fulfill the desire you will ultimately have if you are to be a surfer for the remainder of your days, but I highly recommend that you try.